Madurai to Kanyakumari: Feb 23 - 27
In hindsight our journey to Madurai was one of our most comfortable and smoothest yet. It was still the beginning of our journey so we were still hesitant to tackle the estranged Indian public transport system. We opted for an AC bus with reclining seats as we did have a 9 hour journey ahead of us and it seemed like the best thing to do.We had a bit of a confusing transfer to another bus in the middle of the night, clinging onto our belonging heading toward a bus that was pointed out to us, praying that we have not just been scammed and that the bus would indeed accept us and take us to our next destination. We got in!
A sudden awakening at 3am by the bus driver mumbling “Madurai, Madurai” with the accompanying head wobble indicated that we had reached our destination. We get dropped off at the bus terminal, grab the closest tuk tuk and mosey into the late night dead streets of Madurai. The tuk tuk driver tells us that there aren’t many hotels open at that time of night and takes us to a hotel that he recommends to be “open and cheap”. With the first offer of 600 rupees (12usd) with stained sheets and water hose for shower head, dingy dirty hole in the wall hotel we kindly decline, thank him for his help and walk into the dimly lit streets. I must admit, we did both feel a bit sketched, especially after the tuk driver advised us not too. Very soon we spiked the interest of nearby lurking touts and eagerly they starting banging on various hotel’s tressil doors until one finally opened. (Seriously, they’re up at 4am looking for tourists!? That’s a bit sketch) We ended up settling for 750(14usd)room with fresh sheets, no hot water (its ok, it was 26 at night) and 3 beds at "Hotel Surapi", along one of the budget hotel streets of Town Hall rd.
Indians and tourists alike come to Madurai to see the Sri Meenakshi Temple, the largest temple in south India and considered to be the pinnacle of South Indian temple architecture. The temple is incredible and is the home of the triple breasted, fish eyed-eyed goddess Meenakshi Aman and is more of a huge complex enclosed by 12 gopurams (towers). Some of these towers are larger than others (and so far the largest that we have seen in India) and all are littered with wondrous colourfully painted carvings of gods, goddesses, demons and heroes. Most of the temple is off limits to to non-Hindus, but visitors are allowed to wonder around the complex and through the corridors where you are bound to discover some sculptures of various deities.
On this journey we have been very lucky with stumbling upon elephants and within the complex we were once again pleasantly surprised to turn a corner and to find an elephant religiously blessing people for any donation that they have to spare. We had heard. We had read about the Teppam (float) Festival that supposedly happens on the full moon of the Tamil month in Jan/Feb where the deities of the Temple are taken for a walk around the outside of the complex, accompanied by the elephant in the customary adornments, for all onlookers to see. So, as it was a full moon when we were there and there was clearly a lot of excitement in the temple with hundreds of people walking through the security check into the temple grounds, masses of people entering the ‘Hindu-only’ areas where sounds of chants and the strong aroma of incense flowed from into the visitors area and hordes of people lining up for something. We couldn’t figure out what they were lining up for (and I’m sure some of them didn’t even know) but they stood, and the line was so long that it started at one of the tower gates and stretched all the way through the temple grounds. We didn’t stand in the line as it seemed that it could take the entire day and we didn’t know if we would be allowed to enter into where ever the line led anyways. But yeah, as there was so much going we were certain that we were going to witness the ‘gods going for a stroll.
We have come to realize that every city we've been to carries some unique trade. In Mamallapuram, it was stone carvings, in Pondicherry were drums, and in Madurai, textiles.
First a cold shoulder to a man who offered to tailor our pants for 50 rupees (1 USD), custom fit. After figuring out a way out of the city, we went back to him as Ian needed long pants for the night against mosquitoes. He hustles quickly through the traffic of Madurai and we soon end up upstairs in a small little textile shop with colourful stacks of fabric reached up to the ceiling. He introduces himself as Ganesh. A few expert whips of the tape measurer later, we have our sizes ready to be tailored. We both go silk. Because we're that cool. We ended up getting 2 things; a dress for Christa and silk pants for Ian at a total of 33 USD. We could've haggled better, but we had no idea what any market price was. And plus, the old tailor was such a sweet little man. In hindsight it is still a little expensive according to market price in India there. 4 hours later, we picked them up and paraded them through the streets.
Toward the end of the night, we heard a parade happening in celebration of the full moon in these auspicious days for the southern Indians. The streets are packed with celebration and the occasional fire crackers that no one ever seems startled by. An elderly beautiful wonderful Indian woman decided to make friend with us, starting with a bindhi for Christa. And every time we walked by, she gave us more and more gifts. Mission accomplished when she sat Christa down and put a reef of flowers in her hair and bought us chai tea. We went through her store and both came out with Ganesh bracelets, 10 rupees each. About 20 cents usd.
We came in by accident as all the trains were fully booked and the only available over night bus took us as far as Madurai. However, we made the most of it and made it a trip and time worth seeing. We were not disappointed.
Next step, taking an other late night bus into kanyakumari, the cape of India were 3 oceans meet. We sat down, stood up and paced back and forth waiting for our overnight bus to pick us up from our hotel. Here’s to trusting another bus company!
One hour late and less than expected "luxury" bus. This has all the luxuries of open air windows, self-strap-in luggage (with own rope), right behind a noisy gear box (given up by a nice gentleman who went to the back and took up the
whole row, which in hindsight we should've done), and chairs that recline a whole awesome 1 degree back.
This trip is only 220km but expected to take 6 hours. Already an hour behind schedule, we're looking to arrive at 6 am. Luckily this bus is fully equipped with rackety suspension and noisy everything for a good nights sleep!
Plan as of now: survive this death trap of a ride (already a near miss with a head on collision with a larger truck and swerves, dodges and weaving through some hairy potholes. Which if not missed sends all of us flying up into the air with our luggage obediently behind us) and get off the bus with the beach and sunrise waiting for us. We’ll grab a nice view of the sunrise, find some food, chill at the info centre and then check into a hotel for one night. That'll do. Yes.
To be quite honest, I'm not sure how I'm even capable of typing this up on this damn bumpy ride, bustling through the night time country side of south India. The air is quite refreshing with all the windows open; if you ignore the perpetual waft of god-knows-what from the outside.
So we trudge on...
 |
| Beautiful intricate carvings of Southern Temples |
A sudden awakening at 3am by the bus driver mumbling “Madurai, Madurai” with the accompanying head wobble indicated that we had reached our destination. We get dropped off at the bus terminal, grab the closest tuk tuk and mosey into the late night dead streets of Madurai. The tuk tuk driver tells us that there aren’t many hotels open at that time of night and takes us to a hotel that he recommends to be “open and cheap”. With the first offer of 600 rupees (12usd) with stained sheets and water hose for shower head, dingy dirty hole in the wall hotel we kindly decline, thank him for his help and walk into the dimly lit streets. I must admit, we did both feel a bit sketched, especially after the tuk driver advised us not too. Very soon we spiked the interest of nearby lurking touts and eagerly they starting banging on various hotel’s tressil doors until one finally opened. (Seriously, they’re up at 4am looking for tourists!? That’s a bit sketch) We ended up settling for 750(14usd)room with fresh sheets, no hot water (its ok, it was 26 at night) and 3 beds at "Hotel Surapi", along one of the budget hotel streets of Town Hall rd.
Indians and tourists alike come to Madurai to see the Sri Meenakshi Temple, the largest temple in south India and considered to be the pinnacle of South Indian temple architecture. The temple is incredible and is the home of the triple breasted, fish eyed-eyed goddess Meenakshi Aman and is more of a huge complex enclosed by 12 gopurams (towers). Some of these towers are larger than others (and so far the largest that we have seen in India) and all are littered with wondrous colourfully painted carvings of gods, goddesses, demons and heroes. Most of the temple is off limits to to non-Hindus, but visitors are allowed to wonder around the complex and through the corridors where you are bound to discover some sculptures of various deities.
On this journey we have been very lucky with stumbling upon elephants and within the complex we were once again pleasantly surprised to turn a corner and to find an elephant religiously blessing people for any donation that they have to spare. We had heard. We had read about the Teppam (float) Festival that supposedly happens on the full moon of the Tamil month in Jan/Feb where the deities of the Temple are taken for a walk around the outside of the complex, accompanied by the elephant in the customary adornments, for all onlookers to see. So, as it was a full moon when we were there and there was clearly a lot of excitement in the temple with hundreds of people walking through the security check into the temple grounds, masses of people entering the ‘Hindu-only’ areas where sounds of chants and the strong aroma of incense flowed from into the visitors area and hordes of people lining up for something. We couldn’t figure out what they were lining up for (and I’m sure some of them didn’t even know) but they stood, and the line was so long that it started at one of the tower gates and stretched all the way through the temple grounds. We didn’t stand in the line as it seemed that it could take the entire day and we didn’t know if we would be allowed to enter into where ever the line led anyways. But yeah, as there was so much going we were certain that we were going to witness the ‘gods going for a stroll.
We have come to realize that every city we've been to carries some unique trade. In Mamallapuram, it was stone carvings, in Pondicherry were drums, and in Madurai, textiles.
 |
| Inside Ganesh's textile shop |
 |
| Our short lived surrogate mother |
We came in by accident as all the trains were fully booked and the only available over night bus took us as far as Madurai. However, we made the most of it and made it a trip and time worth seeing. We were not disappointed.
Next step, taking an other late night bus into kanyakumari, the cape of India were 3 oceans meet. We sat down, stood up and paced back and forth waiting for our overnight bus to pick us up from our hotel. Here’s to trusting another bus company!
 |
| Our rope tying skills |
whole row, which in hindsight we should've done), and chairs that recline a whole awesome 1 degree back.
This trip is only 220km but expected to take 6 hours. Already an hour behind schedule, we're looking to arrive at 6 am. Luckily this bus is fully equipped with rackety suspension and noisy everything for a good nights sleep!
Plan as of now: survive this death trap of a ride (already a near miss with a head on collision with a larger truck and swerves, dodges and weaving through some hairy potholes. Which if not missed sends all of us flying up into the air with our luggage obediently behind us) and get off the bus with the beach and sunrise waiting for us. We’ll grab a nice view of the sunrise, find some food, chill at the info centre and then check into a hotel for one night. That'll do. Yes.
To be quite honest, I'm not sure how I'm even capable of typing this up on this damn bumpy ride, bustling through the night time country side of south India. The air is quite refreshing with all the windows open; if you ignore the perpetual waft of god-knows-what from the outside.
So we trudge on...
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